when i die, dublin will be written on my heart

November 6- Dublin

Josh and I woke up around 8 am on Monday, got ready, and hit the streets for some donuts. Just a few blocks down from our hostel was a place called Offbeat Donuts. Desserts… donuts…you know there are just some things we never pass up, especially when on vacation. As it was slightly cheaper, we opted for our choice of three donuts- caramel apple, lemon meringue, and bueno bueno. The caramel apple was stuffed with apple pie filling and had a caramel glaze, the lemon meringue was filled with a perfectly tart/sweet lemon custard and topped with toasted meringue, while the bueno bueno was a yeast donut with a nutella glaze and half a Kinder Bueno candy bar on top. My favorite was hands down the lemon meringue because of the wonderful lemon filling and the toasted meringue topping.


After breakfast, we purchased tickets for the DoDublin hop-on-hop-off bus tour and hopped right on at the O’Connell Street stop. I wish I could remember what these buildings were that we saw at first, but unfortunately I don’t recall at all.   


Our first hop-off was at Dublin Castle. We walked through the courtyard to the main entrance to purchase tickets for a self-guided tour.

Originally we had planned to do a guided tour, but would have had to wait nearly another hour for the next one, so we opted for the self-guided instead. If we went back, I would definitely do the guided tour as we missed out on the Viking excavation, medieval section, and the Chapel Royal. The self-guided tour began up the grand staircase and into the state corridor which was gorgeous and elaborate with all its gold accents.


Off of the state corridor were several rooms that now house exhibitions for the castle, including swords, paintings, furniture, and some amazing plasterwork.


Next up was the state drawing room, the throne room (lots more gold accents in here), and the portrait gallery (also used as a dining room).  


The most impressive room to me was St. Patrick’s Hall. It was massive and very grandly decorated with gold accents, painted ceilings, and flags lining the wall. This hall was where the inauguration of the President of Ireland has been held since 1938.



After we completed the tour inside, we meandered around the gardens (designed as a helicopter landing pad) and happened upon these two fine gentlemen.


We were close enough to our next stop, Christ Church Cathedral, so we walked the short distance over to snap some pictures. We didn’t pay to take a tour, but just the outside was beautiful enough for me.

Our next hop-off was to St. Patrick’s Cathedral. We opted again to not pay for the guided tour, but instead walked around the grounds outside to take pictures. I loved the gothic architecture and how much history it has having been around for several hundreds of years. It will always be one of my favorite parts of Dublin.


We ventured on foot to the next stop- Teeling Whiskey Distillery.

Here we did opt for the guided tour and I am very happy we did. Our tour guide was funny and full of knowledge. I was quite impressed the distillery has only been opened since 2015 (and the first new distillery to open in Dublin in over 125 years). We were able to see the actual parts of the process, including the lauter tun, the wort in wooden barrels, and the copper distillation pots.

At the end of our tour, we had a wonderful tasting experience where our tour guide actually sat down and taught us how to properly taste whiskey. We did the Teeling Tasting which included a shot of Teeling Small Batch and a handcrafted whiskey cocktail. While I didn’t love the shot of whiskey (I gave Josh mine), I did love their Winter Spice Tea cocktail (Teeling Small Batch, vanilla liqueur, housemade apple-cinnamon syrup, lemon juice, and Put the Cat Out tea).  Without hesitation, I would recommend this tour and say that it is by far the best distillery/brewery tour I’ve been on.

We hopped back on the bus at Teeling and rode to the Guinness Storehouse. After the whiskey tasting, we decided it might be a good idea to grab something to eat before drinking more alcohol, so we walked over to The Brazen Head for a late lunch. I was really excited to take Josh there for food, as it was one of my favorite places when I had visited previously. It was as good as I remembered. I had an order of Guinness stew and Josh had the bangers and mash with a Smithwick’s.


After a wonderful lunch, we walked back to the Guinness Storehouse to take the tour there. This tour was quite different than Teeling- it was all self guided through several different levels, each with a different “themes” at each level.


One aspect of the tour that was really neat was the tasting room experience. When we entered the room, there were four columns with “fog” rolling out the top, each with a different scent (barley, hops, esters, and malt) from an ingredient of their beer. After the smelling portion of the experience, we moved into another room with small tasting glasses of Guinness where the guide taught everyone how to properly drink Guinness. I thought it was a really nice touch and enjoyed a more hands-on part of the tour.


Another part of the tour that I enjoyed were the oversize Guinness ad animals.

The last part of the tour and possibly the coolest was the gravity bar on the top floor where they pour you a pint of Guinness and you look out of a 360 degree glass window over all of Dublin city.

After Guinness, it was too late to stop off anywhere else on the tour, so we rode the bus back to Ha’Penny Bridge and headed to eat.


We had planned to eat at Stag’s Head, but upon arriving and ordering a drink we found out they don’t serve food after 6 pm. It was a real bummer. We enjoyed a pint there anyways and headed back across the river to O’Connell’s Bar to eat.

I had been craving fish and chips and that’s just what I ordered. It also came with mushy peas and coleslaw. Josh had the fish pie which sounds kind of weird, but was actually really delicious- it was full of gooey cheese, bacon, and yummy flaky fish. Of course, we also had to have a side of brown bread with butter.

While we ate, a pretty blonde played the guitar and sang at the front of the restaurant. Note- if you ever eat there, sit downstairs in the main bar if possible because they have several cozy circular booths down there that would have made the experience even better.

To end the night, we stopped back in at Cloud Nine for dessert. I had a nutella crȇpe with crème brȗlée gelato (so creamy and smooth with crystallized sugar pieces, yum!) and Josh had a nutella and strawberry crȇpe with crème brȗlée gelato.  


My obsession with Irish sheep is real…


We ended up booking another night at Abigail’s Hostel, but we switched to a private room with an en suite bathroom. While it was cheaper to do the 12 bunk room, I definitely enjoyed having some privacy and not wondering if anyone would be coming into the room in the middle of the night.


Tip of the day: Purchase tickets for the DoDublin bus- you don’t have to worry about driving and parking, it takes you to the top Dublin attractions, and it’s fun.


I’m back! Sorry for the long delay between posts…between traveling in Ireland for 2 weeks and the Thanksgiving holiday weekend, I have had zero time to post. I promise I’ll be making up for it with all kinds of fun Ireland travels 🙂

November 4- Travel Day

Our trip to Ireland began very very early Saturday morning (4 am) with a car ride to the Indianapolis train station. Huge thanks to Josh’s parents for taking us and saving us a ton of money by not having to park our car somewhere up there for 2 weeks! We arrived at the train station a little early, so we had to wait a bit before boarding the train. The little over 5 hour train ride from Indy to Chicago (slightly longer than planned as we got behind a slow moving freight train and had a few delays) was rather boring and uneventful (a little Hallmark movie watching, staring out the window, and a nice little nap).

Once we arrived in Chicago, we navigated our way through Union Station to the Clinton Street L station for an hour and twenty minute ride to O’Hare Airport. Talk about a lot of traveling. And this was only the beginning! Once we arrived at O’Hare, we found ourselves waiting in line to check our bags and get our boarding passes. We thought it was going to go quickly, but we ended up standing for an hour before anyone came to the KLM desk!!! I was SO frustrated. And hungry. Ok, mostly just hungry as I hadn’t eaten for almost 8 hours. And for anyone who knows me, you know this is just really not normal or acceptable. We finally got our bags checked and our boarding passes and made our way through security. Unfortunately, our flight got delayed 2 hours and 15 minutes, so now we had a grand ole 5 hours and 45 minutes (instead of 3 hours and 15 minutes) to kill before our flight.


We found a pizza place, Tocco, to eat at and it was actually really good. I needed a drink (I probably shouldn’t have, you know, since I hadn’t eaten for 8 hours), so I ordered a mojito. Josh had a Sam Adams Oktoberfest. For an appetizer, we had gnocco fritto (fried dough squares served with a variety of meats). They were not kidding with the meats. I honestly think there was almost a pound each of freshly sliced turkey, prosciutto, and ham. It was delicious. We also ordered the Casereccia pizza (white pizza with smoked mozzarella, sliced tomatoes, and mushrooms). While it was good, it was obviously wayyy overpriced as it was at the airport. Thankfully, we had both received meal vouchers from KLM due to our delayed flight which we used towards our meal here.

After eating, we walked around the international terminal for a bit trying to kill some time. I had a nice nap at our gate. When I woke up, we still had several hours and were bored, so we walked around some more. We even found a quiet corner and did some ROMWOD (If you’re ever wondering if you can stretch in jeans…American Eagle jeans for the win on this one!). 


Josh got a coffee to help him stay awake. We decided we should probably get some dinner because we weren’t sure any food would be served during our flight because of the delay. Josh got a Kung Pao chicken and Thai curry chicken bao with a spicy peanut noodle salad from Wow Bao and I had a steak pita with fries from Urban Olive. The baos and pita were actually both really good even with being fast food airport food! Finally (finally! finally! finally!) it was time to board our plane and head to Amsterdam! I have no idea who the kid is that photo-bombed us, but he’s fantastic!


Almost as soon as we got in the air, the flight attendant announced they would be serving us dinner. I know we had just eaten about an hour before, but who am I to turn down free food? I had the pasta option with a roll, cheddar cheese, a salad with Italian dressing, Club crackers, and a very yummy brownie with peanut butter crumbles on top. Josh had the same thing except with meatballs instead of pasta. One thing I love about international flights are all the movies they offer. I thoroughly enjoyed watching “Girls Night” while eating my dinner. So funny, so very inappropriate. Check it out. After the movie was finished, I fell asleep for a few hours. It wasn’t great sleep, as you know from flying, but it was sleep nonetheless. I woke up with about an hour left until arriving in Amsterdam, so I started “Chips”. What little I got to see, I enjoyed. Who doesn’t love a silly/funny cop movie and that’s just what this is. We arrived in Amsterdam without any issues and made our way to our next gate. Except we couldn’t get into our gate. It was all closed off by glass doors. We could see people already in there, but had no idea how to get in. Since we still had about 2.5 hours before our flight to Dublin, we wandered around and seriously questioned how we were going to get into our gate. After much perplexing, I finally asked a KLM agent. Apparently, the gates are used for people from upstairs (where exactly they’re coming from/going, I have no idea) as well as the main floor and sometimes are closed off. So, no worries, the gate for our flight just hadn’t opened yet. Again, we had lots of time to kill and not a lot to do except walk around and look through the airport shops. We had a very quick (about 45 minute), uneventful plane ride from Amsterdam to Dublin with an intriguing sandwich of organic bread with free range chicken with pumpkin carrot spread. I quite enjoyed that the packaging made a point of describing how well the chickens were cared for and that they even had day quarters and night quarters for spending their time.

Tip of the day: Buy direct flights, so that you don’t have to sit around in airports for hours on end. Unless, you want to save lots of money.